Millions find Heaven in the water

By Mark Tully
Senior India Analyst

ALLAHABAD, India -- The Kumbh Mela could only take place in India.

In no other country would millions and millions of pilgrims, driven just by faith that the sins of this life and previous lives would be washed away by bathing in the confluence of two rivers at an auspicious time, brave severe hardships, some walking barefooted, to get to bathe.

Where else would you find hundreds of holy men willing to march naked in processions through the crowds of pilgrims, or one thousand brahmins sitting around a hundred sacred fires offering a sacrifice for world peace?

At what gathering of one religion would you find such a variety of teaching, such an acceptance that there are many ways to God?

I even heard one preacher even say that a bathe in the Ganges was no more effective than washing under a tap. He didn't seem to cause any offence.

In spite of this triumph of faith I wonder whether there will be another Maha or Great Kumbh Mela on this scale. India has changed since I came to the last Kumbh Mela twelve years ago.

In 1989 India had barely entered the television age with only one unwatchable government broadcaster. Since then channels have sprouted like mushrooms and the print media has reacted by becoming more sensational.

Two Indian news magazines published pictures of a Mexican woman who stripped to bathe in the Ganges, and the government had to ban photography of the naked sadhus after photographers took full frontal pictures on the first of what are known as the royal bathing days.

India has joined the motor car age since 1989 too. During the days before the crowds gather for the big bathe pilgrims like to wander from pavilion to pavilion listening to the various teachers and preachers.

This time they were impeded by impatient Indian drivers until the authorities wisely banned all vehicular traffic.

Over the past 12 years India has relaxed its austere socialism,opened its economy to the world and let in consumerism. Balloons advertising international brands of soap, toothpaste, instant coffee and other products hover over this Kumbh Mela.

So far these changes have had little impact on the pilgrims. Their faith seems to remain as strong as ever.

Twelve years ago I was struck by the peacefulness and patience of the vast crowds. Once again it's only the pilgrims' discipline which has prevented stampedes, and everyday India is not a disciplined country.

But the vast majority of the pilgrims are poor villagers. Will their faith remain so strong if they become prosperous enough to be consumers? Is India's ancient wisdom at last facing a challenge it can not overcome?

The head of one of the historic Hindu seats of learning told me that all religions should unite to fight materialism.

If they don't will the world's largest congregation gather again for the next Great Kumbh Mela in twelve years time?